Civil War Knitted or Crocheted Army Mittens or "Shooter's Mittens" Patterns

Image courtesy of the New-York Historical Society

Tensions were high in 1861 and even before the first shots were fired, men and boys lined up to join the coming fight. As loved ones left home and took their spots in rank, the wives, sisters, mothers and children at home were busy doing their part to keep their loved ones safe and as comfortable as possible. Women formed handiwork groups and people commented that girls no longer sat idle in public at any time but were always working on some garment for the soldiers.

Many organizations were created or took part in collecting items for the soldiers. Money, foodstuffs and clothing made up the bulk of donations and organizations were not shy in their requests for items:

"WOOLLEN MITTENS.—An officer from West Point who commands one of the finest regiments in the service, suggests that woollen [sic] mittens for the soldiers will be greatly needed when the cold weather begins. Will not all who can employ themselves in this way, help to furnish 500,000 pairs? They should be knit with one finger to allow the free use of the first finger and thumb. It is said there were more soldiers disabled in the Crimean war from frost bitten fingers than from any other cause."

 -Delaware State Journal and Statesman, November 5, 1861

The need was great enough that there were knit, crochet and even sewn patterns printed for this style of glove. Woollen mittens with a separate finger and thumb were so associated with soldiers that they found their way into a poem printed in The Ladies’ Repository in 1861,

"Knit-knit-knit-
With a warm heart and a true!
Knit-knit-knit-
The stockings warm and new.
The mittens with a finger and thumb complete,
The gloves for the drummers their drums to beat-
And the nice warm socks for the shivering feet-"

As the war raged on, the pattern stopped appearing in publications, likely due to the war frenzy dying down. Women were still knitting and sewing items but many utilized the patterns they had collected early on.   

By January 1865, E.A. Paul, a correspondent from the New York Times to Sheridan's army reported that the weather had been cold, icy and wet and that 1 out of 4 soldiers did not have mittens. He postulated that the extra money spent on Christmas dinners could have covered the expense of the 50,000 pairs of mittens the army needed.  

Different versions of the pattern:

Photo courtesy of Bren Woodard

Click here for a modern pattern for  "Shooter's Mitts."

References:

http://historydetectives.nyhistory.org/2014/04/blast-from-the-past-mittens-and-slippers-during-the-american-civil-war/

http://cyrusforwood.blogs.delaware.gov/tag/us-sanitary-commission/

1861 Ladies' Wool Tie Pattern

It's a bit late for New Year's but here's a quick knitting pattern from 1861. The knitted tie is bordered with imitation, knitted ermine which was popular at the time. It has fallen out of fashion in modern times to give New Year's gifts but it's still a neat idea.

All of my period knitting items use the conversion table and information written by Collen Formby. If you haven't read that article, it's a lifesaver when trying to create period knitting projects.

I like that this tie would create a bit of warmth around the neck without adding a lot of bulk. It would also be a way to add a bit of color to an otherwise plain dress. The full pattern in the book includes a set of matching cuffs.

One thing about 1850s clothing that looks really strange to our modern eyes is the use of matching which looks excessive to us. For instance, it was popular for women to wear two identical bracelets, one on each wrist. Women might also wear a large "show piece" necklace with equally large matching earrings.Today we would consider the looks gaudy.

Unfortunately every once in a while, my historical wardrobe will sneak into my modern one and I'll find myself over-jeweled in a way that looks almost sarcastic today. Only one of the few problems with trying to be stylish in multiple centuries. :)     

Finished Project! Dark Mark Illusion Scarf!

The scarf at an angle.

I finally got my "Dark Mark Illusion Scarf" off of my needles! It has been one of those projects that was pushed to the bottom of the pile by more time-sensitive things. I still need to add fringe to it and block it. I was thinking about white fringe or red. If I put red fringe on it, I think the scarf will look a little too lizard-like which would look neat but wouldn't be as wearable. I think the white fringe would make it look less Halloween-y.

The scarf, looking straight-on.

The neat thing about this scarf is that when you look straight on it, you can not see the design. But if you are at an angle, such as walking up stairs, the design pops out. The design is from the Harry Potter Movies (which I don't like all that much) but the pattern was fun so I had to make one. I also try to knit a bit more in the summer because if I don't, nothing will be done in time to wear it when it is cold.  It is harder to knit in the summer because the wool on your lap does get very warm, in the winter, the extra heat is welcoming.

 

So, which fringe do you think would look better? I can do all green, all black, a mixture of green and black, red or white. What do you think would look best? If you want to make your own scarf, the pattern is now on Ravelry for free and only took two skeins of wool to make. I used alpaca so it's very toasty to wear. I can't wait for winter now.

 

Civil War Era Purse Knit-Along Update #1

 If you are new to the knit-along, you can work on a Civil War Era knitted purse along with the rest of us! The pattern can be found here. Then everyone has a chance to link their progress to the bottom of this and every update posts which should be posted on Fridays.

I admit, I've been lazy on my knitting. Now that my birthday is over, I'll have more time to work on it. I am thinking of keeping the violet and white but am also considering white and red. I wish I could post a photo but my camera died over the weekend and I have to try and fix it.

Feel free to link your materials or your progress on the widget below.  

Civil War Era Purse Knit-Along!!

Many people expressed an interest in a knitted Civil War Era purse knit-along. Many thought that June would be the best month for it. I have changed the pattern since I have started planning this, if anyone wants the original pattern, feel free to e-mail me. I found that the "honeycomb" pattern was a little too difficult for some knitters and is almost impossible to fix if a stitch is dropped. I found this simple pattern and am happy that it makes a pretty purse that I think a lot of my readers will be happy with. As with the sontag knit-along, I will put a widget on my blog that allows participating knitters to post their progress every Friday. I understand that June is a reenactment month so will leave the widgets up until the next Wednesday.

 



The pattern I have chosen is from 1858 is simple and makes a pretty purse. A sample swatch is shown at the left. The purse is pretty on both sides. 






I will be posting the instructions today. I tried to make them easy to print. If you would rather have a PDF copy of them, please send an e-mail to TheSailorsWifeSa@Aim.com.

Let me know what you think! I think we'll keep this one going until the end of July. Although it is a tiny purse, there is a lot of knitting to do. The result is very pretty and I can't wait to make one to hold all of my ball items. The cost of the purse should only be $4.00 unless you have to buy needles in which case the total will be close to $9.00. I wanted to make a purse that was affordable for everyone and within the ability of the majority of knitters.

Civil War Era Crochet Purse Pattern

If I could crochet, this is one of the first things I would make. I have seen similar originals and they are absolutely gorgeous. These types of purses are made with thin "purse silk" which isn't sold much anymore. You can buy it as "beading silk" but they sell it in short lengths. A fair substitution is crocheting cotton. You can buy it inexpensively and although it lacks the feel and luster of silk, it still makes for pretty items.

Some period examples:

• Australian Purse circa 1860 :This one looks knitted to me but the style is similar and the striped pattern is pretty. 
• Striped Purse mid to late 1800s from LibraryCompany.org from the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

Until I learn to crochet, I'll have to leave this pretty purse to the readers who can. If you do end up making this purse, please let me know. I would love to post some photos.

Civil War Era Knitted Fringe and a Sneak Peak of the Knitted Civil War Reticule

Since I didn't anticipate a tie for when the Civil War Era Knit-Along would be I've decided to hold it in June and let everyone know what materials they will need now so that they have time to get them .








The Materials are:

- 1 Skein of size 10 Crochet Cotton.
- 2 size 00 knitting needles (double pointed are fine.)
- Lining fabric, 1/4 of a yard should be plenty

I think everyone will be pleased with the pattern. It's an open period stitch that makes for a pretty and daint purse.

It is a very small stitch for this project.

I've also been working on some knitted fringe, I was thinking of adding a bit to my dress. I wasn't sure how it would turn out but I think it's pretty enough. I should have ironed the fringe out straight for the pictures.

The Instructions: 

Cast on 9 Stitches.

Slip 1, Knit 2, Yarn Over and Knit 2 Together, Knit 1, Yarn Over and Knit 2 Together, Knit 1.
Turn the knitting over and cast off the first 5 stitches and pull the remaining 4 stitches off the needle and untangle them to form one fringe. Holding the knitting in your left hand, cast on 8 more stitches by looping the yarn around the needle.
Repeat.

The joints are a little "wonky" but after a while it evens out and looks pretty. It's different than normal knitting but only takes a few tries to get right. Make sure to knit loosely.  

Alternative Knitted Sontag Patterns

The major complain I hear about the Knitted Sontag from Godey's Lady's Book is that EVERYONE has the same one (however cute they are.) I've found two rarer patterns that I have never seen anyone wear.

What is fortunate about the first sontag pictured here is that this pattern might actually make a medium sized sontag. It also calls for a crochet border which is lucky for those of you who know how to crochet.

The second pattern, while a little awkward looking at first, really could look cute with a Civil War Era dress. The pattern was made for beginners which is really good and also details a little about knitting needles of the time, different yarns and how to knit. It has imitation ermine spots just like the popular Godey's pattern. This pattern seems like it would make a small sontag as the patten was made for younger girls. I would suggest making one the same size in the directions (and give it to a young girl) and make written notes while you knit of where you need to make adjustments to make one your size.  The "elastic band" mentioned is probably referring to "elastic knitting," according to the pictures. Elastic did exist but was only used for accessories. The elastic knitting referenced below is a modern day "Brioche Stitch," and you much cast on a number of stitches divisible by 3 or it will not work.

You might be wondering whatever happened to my Sontag. I am still waiting to buy new yarn. I need one more skein of green yards but refuse to spend that much to ship one skein of yarn. So I am waiting until I have a new project so I can combine shipping. It's been so cold lately, I wish I would finish it just so I can wear it around the house!  

Civil War Knitted Garters from Godey's Lady's Book

Weather permitting, I will hopefully be going to my friend's house for a knitting group tomorrow. I plan to finish my Civil War garters from a Godey's pattern that I had been meaning to try for a good few years. The pattern can be found here.

I think that the first garter turned out very similar to the etching. It is being modeled on one of my Christmas presents. I used 100% cotton crochet thread. It is stretchy enough to fit on my upper leg or lower leg which is great depending on what kind of reenacting socks you wear.

 

The garter is a lot bigger than how I pictured it when looking at the etching. But they fit perfectly. I was very worried at trying to loop the knitting because I had never tried to pick up stitches from a cast on but it worked out perfectly with very little issues. 

Hope you enjoy!

1850s Multicolored Yarns

Pearl wool and Chine Wool were multicolored wools similar to multicolored yarns today. In the late 1850s, these yarns were a relatively new style. These yarns were dyed alternately white and one or more colors, about 1/4 inch to 1/2 and inch long of each color. This yarn was used in scarves, hoods, and decorative pillows. This very pretty, sweater vest is possibly made out of pearl wool.

Another type of multicolored wool was "Clouded Wool." Clouded wool was  Clouded wool was wrapped in corn husks,paper, cloth or string every two or three inches apart before dyeing to create a white and colored effect. Clouded wool was popular in the 1840s.In later years clouded wool was made by combing two different colors of dyed, raw wool together before it was spun. Blue clouded wool socks are referred to in many early 20th century books and a possible "clouded blue sock" can be seen at the Wisconsin Historical Society. 


Below is a pattern for a knitted comforter or scarf. It is knitted with pearl wool and black to imitate woven plaid. For reenactors, if you can find 100% wool with 1/4-1/2 inch color streaks, a knitting project using it could add some much needed variety to the group impression.  

Glengarry Cap Crochet Pattern from Godey's Lady's Book

Glengarry caps (or Glengarry Bonnets,) have been thought to have been worn by the Scottish military since 1794. In the mid-1800s, the hat was adopted by men and young boys in England.  By the time of the American Civil War, it was a popular civilian hat for men, children and ladies, copied from the 1850s English fashions.

During the 1860s the fashion caps were commonly made out of velvet or stiff cloth. Checked or contrasting colored solid bands were common. They were sometimes decorated with feathers and cockades. You can learn to make very beautiful cockades at American Duchess. When made correctly, the cap should have a dip in the middle of the top.

This crochet pattern from Godey's Lady's Book (1861) was previously published in London in 1853.

If I ever learn to crochet, this looks like such a cute hat to make. It looks like it might be a good started project after I practice "granny squares." Crochet is still a complete mystery to me, knitting makes perfect sense. Has anyone ever made this hat? I'd love to see what it looks like all finished. I love green, I think this would look so cute in the winter. I love the look of crochet beanies that people wear to school, this is like a quirky twist.

I've been itching to finish knitting my sontag but I can't bring myself to pay the $4.00 shipping on one ball of yarn so I have to put it on hold. The ladies over at The Lady's Guide for Re-enactresses, suggest recycling sweaters for inexpensive yarn. I love that you get cheap yarn and recycle at the same time. Look at this pretty sontag they made out of thrifted yarn! The nice thing is you can read the tags and find 100% wool yarn. How cool. So, all of you crocheters, is this hat easy enough for a beginner?

**Please remember to enter my contest, the drawing will be held on October 5th!**